The 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux offers high-toned aromas of black tea, game, maraschino, and black fruits. On the palate, it displays prominent tannins but also an abundance of clear and juicy, bitter-sweet black cherry and raspberry with a caramelized edge. Its finish is more soothing but less gripping than that of the Chambolle and evinces very slight warmth. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($20.00; 86); 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin ($28.00; 86). It seems fitting that the wines of Serafin – who trained as a carpenter – would be surrounded by new wood. For all of their intense fruit (heightened by a week’s pre-fermentative cold soaking), there is a certain stylistic stiffness which, taken together with the natural concentration and structure of the vintage, suggests one would do well to wait six or eight years before pulling any corks. Serafin – who likens them to more concentrated, corseted cousins of his 1999s -- does not demur. He also seemed happy to note that he had managed to keep this year’s collection under 14% alcohol. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083.

Good ruby-red. Reticent aromas of dark fruits, licorice and chocolate. Sweet and fat with fruit; broad, rich and chocolatey, with a faint gamey nuance. Finishes strong, with plenty of ripe tannins.

Dark crimson. Slightly raw nose. Very chewy and rather aggressively astringent. Not quite enough fruit weight. (JR)