Another highlight in this range, 2012 Charmes-Chambertin is beautifully lifted and savory. Crushed flowers, sweet red berries, anise and cinnamon waft from the glass effortlessly. The 2012 is sexy, racy and impeccably polished from start to finish. The tannins are a bit firm today, but there is more than enough depth in the fruit to provide balance. All the 2012 needs is time.

The 2012 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a fresh minty bouquet that is well-defined and vigorous, offering dried rose petals and spice as it unfurls. The palate is crisp on the entry with crisp tannins that underpin what is a linear Charmes-Chambertin that may have closed up a little since November. However there is plenty of matiere on the finish. When I visited Domaine Taupenot-Merme in November, some of the samples did not show well since they had been taken too quickly from tank, therefore I re-tasted them with Romain Taupenot in late January, with the exception of his negoce wines that did not have any problems. Importers: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620; Scott Paul Wines, Carlton, OR; tel. (503) 852-7300; J.A.O. Wine Imports, McLean, VA; [email protected]. Also available through John Armit Wines in the UK.