The 2012 Corton Rognet dazzles from start to finish. Tar, licorice, black cherries, smoke and spices burst from the glass as this exuberant, powerful Burgundy shows off its personality. The 2012 is rich, intense and massively structured, but all the elements are in the right place. Readers lucky enough to find the 2012 should plan on giving the wine a few years in the cellar. Today, the Corton Rognet is striking. In 2012 there are just 4 barrels instead of the typical 7 or so.

The 2012 Corton Rognet Grand Cru has a fragrant bouquet with macerated red cherries, old sweet shop and orange zest, which all unfold with confidence in the glass. The palate is crisp and focused on the entry with zippy acidity, exhibiting a pleasant chewiness toward the finish. When I visited Domaine Taupenot-Merme in November, some of the samples did not show well since they had been taken too quickly from tank, therefore I re-tasted them with Romain Taupenot in late January, with the exception of his negoce wines that did not have any problems. Importers: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620; Scott Paul Wines, Carlton, OR; tel. (503) 852-7300; J.A.O. Wine Imports, McLean, VA; [email protected]. Also available through John Armit Wines in the UK.