The 2014 Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru is earthy, almost peaty on the nose, touches of wild moorland and wet moss filtering through the brambly red fruit, and touches of tobacco and basalt emerging with time. I love the mercurial nature of this nose. The palate is medium-bodied with a touch of piquancy on the entry, offering crunchy red cherries and wild strawberry, orange peel and a cheeky pinch of white pepper. It does not quite kick on with the chutzpah of the 2016, but a cerebral element makes it very alluring.

Bright medium red. Some very ripe suggestions to the aromas of strawberry, raspberry, flowers and spices. Supple and seamless but youthfully backward, displaying a distinctly darker, medicinal character to its berry, licorice and violet flavors. Showing much less sweetness in the early going than the Charmes-Chambertin, this very unevolved wine will require substantial patience. But even today its serious tannins are well coated by deep fruit.

Super savoury and refreshing. Lovely sweet start and then great lively finish. Great appeal for its combination of depth and refreshment. Fine tannins on the end. (JR)