For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2010 Charmes-Chambertin is striking for its weightless elegance and finessed, silky tannins. The use of 20% whole clusters gives the Charmes gorgeous aromatic lift and expressiveness. Persistent saline notes frame the eternal, mid-weight finish. Liger-Belair reports he had a very high percentage of shot berries in this parcel. The Charmes is made from purchased fruit from a parcel that sits just below the Laticières/Chambertin border.

(true Charmes, planted north-south; 32 hectoliters per hectare, 30% whole clusters, 40% new oak): Good full medium red. Captivating nose offers wild dark raspberry, game, licorice and smoky minerality; a bit Chambertin-like. Fat, sweet and full yet light on its feet; in a distinctly opulent, broad style but sappy, saline and quite fresh. Really builds on the finish, which features sweet tannins and noteworthy flesh. Not at all a calcaire style. (Liger-Belair did a labor-intensive berry-by-berry destemming for this wine, as he did with his Richebourg in 2010.)