Unctuous and explosive on the palate, the 2012 Charmes-Chambertin is laced with the essence of raspberry jam, wild flowers, spices and cloves. The impression is one of total silk as the Charmes opens up in the glass. Thibault Liger-Belair added that the 2012 came in at about 17% potential alcohol. Liger-Belair opted for pump overs exclusively during Vinification and is aging the wine in 100% new French oak. The 2012 is a bit extreme in style but it is also compelling.

(carrying a freakishly high 15.5% alcohol; aged in 100% new oak; there were just two barrels of this juice in 2012, versus a normal five): Good dark red. Wild, musky aromas of black raspberry, mocha, espresso, carob and spices. Large-scaled and creamy in the mouth, with its exotic fruit character perked up by pepper and spice notes. Surprisingly dry on the back end. Lots of material here but I probably would have guessed that the alcohol was in the high 13s. Still, this is an oddball. Liger-Belair picked these very concentrated, oidium-affected grapes at 17%(!) natural alcohol, hand-destemmed them and did no punchdowns during the vinification. The carbonic maceration of whole berries brought a bit of freshness, he told me, and by opening the tanks during the fermentation he was able to lose about 1.5% alcohol. This wine currently has a pH near 4 and will get a lot more elevage.