The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Les St. Georges bursts from the glass with a dark, powerful voice. This is classic Les St. Georges. At times a bit on the rustic side, the wine makes up for its occasional firmness with tons of fruit, massive structure and tons of personality. There is an implosive quality that suggests the 2009 is holding back much of its potential. I can’t wait to taste this with another few years of bottle age. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

(14.8% alcohol): Bright, full red. Cherry, spices, leather and truffley underbrush on the nose. Creamy and rich in the mouth, with grand cru volume to the cherry, raspberry and spice flavors. Not as minerally as usual for this top cuvee , but boasts wonderful retention of fruits and spices for the year. Finishes horizontal, smooth and very long. Lots of millerandage here, notes Liger-Belair.

Also dark crimson – notably deeper than most 2009 reds. Neat, concentrated, pretty subtle nose. Dry finish after many layers of excitement. Rich but not soupy. Quite a bit of tannin but it’s well handled. (JR)