The 2010 Nuits St. Georges Les St. Georges is utterly captivating. Layers of exotic fruit literally burst from the glass. Mint, graphite, freshly cut flowers and spices develop in the glass, adding considerable depth and nuance. I especially like the way the fruit builds towards the huge, powerful finish. This is a dazzling effort. Even more importantly, it makes a compelling case for the upgrading of Les St. Georges to Grand Cru status. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2045. I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted with Thibault Liger-Belair. Thibault’s core holdings are the remaining vestiges of his family’s portion of the original Liger-Belair estate that was sold in the early 1930s. In recent years, Liger-Belair has added a few negociant wines to augment his range. Thibault Liger-Belair is the largest owner of the Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les St. Georges and the leading proponent of the movement to have the vineyard classified as a Grand Cru. Liger-Belair’s decision to taste his Les St. Georges in between the Clos de Vougeot and Richebourg makes an eloquent case. In fact, words are pretty much superfluous at that point. I will report on Liger-Belair’s 2009s in the April issue. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

(Liger-Belair is the largest owner in this outstanding premier cru, at 2.1 hectares, but will offer just 11 barrels in 2010, vs. a normal 30, as the crop level was just over 12 hectoliters per hectare; 20% vendange entier ): Deep, bright red. Wild aromas of black cherry, squid ink and earth. The mid-palate offers almost painful intensity to the energetic flavors of black cherry, iodine, spices and bitter chocolate, but there's also terrific volume here. Perhaps most impressive today on the explosively long, vibrant finish, which offers superb focus and subtle persistence. This needs longer elevage . From vines planted in the mid-1940s.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

11 hl/ha. Very sweet and rich. Energetic. (JR)