Including just shy of 40% whole cluster, the 2019 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 1er Cru has an outstanding bouquet of beautifully defined brambly red fruit, commingling with crushed stone and wilted rose petal scents. The tensile palate is medium-bodied with chalky tannins, a fine bead of acidity and a crisp, structured, classically styled finish. Bon vin .

Thibault operated from a new Nuits winery from 2017. He is heavily into biodynamics – horses and all. He owns 2 ha, more than anyone else, in this premier cru well on its way to becoming a grand cru. The majority of the vines are 80 years old! (Louis-Michel of the Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair is a very distant cousin.) Unfined and unfiltered. Transparent garnet. Relatively light but sweet nose. Rather a precise, jewelly quality. Broad in the beam and sweet and salty on the palate. Lots of flavour pinging around the palate. Almost leathery, polished, fine tannins are there in abundance. Lots more development to come. Sweet finish and almost painful to taste now because it is so unresolved. Quite marked acidity at the moment. (JR)