The 2010 Vosne-Romanee Aux Reas is fabulous in this vintage. Round, sensual and layered, the Aux Reas impresses for its endless layers of deeply pitched, spiced dark fruit. Chalky, mineral notes give the wine its length and sense of proportion. This is pure sensuality and polish. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted with Thibault Liger-Belair. Thibault’s core holdings are the remaining vestiges of his family’s portion of the original Liger-Belair estate that was sold in the early 1930s. In recent years, Liger-Belair has added a few negociant wines to augment his range. Thibault Liger-Belair is the largest owner of the Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les St. Georges and the leading proponent of the movement to have the vineyard classified as a Grand Cru. Liger-Belair’s decision to taste his Les St. Georges in between the Clos de Vougeot and Richebourg makes an eloquent case. In fact, words are pretty much superfluous at that point. I will report on Liger-Belair’s 2009s in the April issue. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Good bright red-ruby. Deep but reticent nose offers pure aromas of bitter cherry, iodine, citrus zest and meat. Juicy, saline and tightly wound, with terrific intensity to the red berry and stone flavors. Very concentrated, sappy wine, finishing with palate-stimulating mineral and spice notes and excellent persistence. Like a number of these 2010s, this should remain crunchy and fresh for a long time in bottle.

Very sweet and rich. Dense and intense. Lots of effort in here! Just a little soft but you cannot fault it for not trying. (JR)