The king of the cellar is the 2020 Chambertin Grand Cru, a magical wine in the making that unwinds in the glass with aromas of cherries, blackberries, rich soil tones, espresso roast, rose petals, licorice, oyster sauce and dark chocolate. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's seamless and complete, with huge concentration, lively acids and rich, velvety tannins, concluding with a long, resonant finish. Well-connected and well-heeled readers will derive immense pleasure in comparing the 2020 with the 2019 and 2018 renditions several decades from now.

The 2020 Chambertin Grand Cru is clean and precise on the nose, with raspberry and wild strawberry, crushed stone and discreet sous-bois scents. This, again, unfolds wonderfully in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle but insistent grip. It is more saline than Launay Horiot's Chambertin, with fine structure and a hint of spice towards the finish that has just a touch of piquancy. Bravo - this is a Chambertin from the top drawer. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.