Good deep red. Wild red fruits, musky game, roast coffee, black licorice and a peppery nuance on the highly complex, soil-inflected nose. Dense, fresh and concentrated; sappy and juicy for all its power. There's a captivating chewiness to the spicy red fruit and mineral flavors. Very slow to unfold on the back end, finishing with substantial dusty tannins and lovely lingering perfume. The family's holding is in the middle of Chambertin, stretching from the bottom to the top of this grand cru. As this is Chambertin and not Clos de Beze, the style is more massive and profound, notes David. My score may turn out to be conservative.

Their first year of conversion to biodynamics. Vines planted in 1919, 1958 and 1972. Half whole bunch. Bright crimson. Meaty, savoury nose that’s intense and attention-grabbing with some liquorice and tarmacadam but with luscious sweetness. Some may reproach it for being a Chambertin one could think of drinking at 10 years old but it’s gorgeous! Real sinew and great balance of fruit and freshness. Maybe ideally you would hold it for another two or three years but the opulence of the fruit can be deceptive. (JR)