Some of Cécile Tremblay's wines in this vintage are decidedly reticent and shut down, but the 2013 Echézeaux du Dessus Grand Cru is still open for inspection, bursting from the glass with a lavish bouquet of plums, cassis, smoked duck and dark chocolate, followed by a full-bodied, ample and expansive palate with excellent concentration at the core, velvety structuring tannins and a long, vibrant finish. In the unlikely event that any readers possess large numbers of bottles, trying one now wouldn't be a crime.

(from a sunny south/southeast-facing site which Tremblay describes as the opposite of Les Rouges du Dessus, which faces northwest and is higher on the hillside; the Echézeaux was picked on October 3, while the Rouges came in five days later): Healthy medium red. Musky, ripe redcurrant, mocha, tobacco and dried flowers on the nose; deeper-pitched than the Rouges. Ripe, plump, full and utterly seamless on the palate, with harmonious acidity and solid underlying minerality lending shape to this rather voluptuous wine. Lovely late-arriving minerality and substantial dusty tannins give this wine a serious structure for aging.

No whole bunch, 70% new oak. Tense and dense with ripe purple fruits on the nose. Actually surprisingly soft and polished. The tannins are almost hidden. Juicy and dense. The most grown-up of these wines and the least sweet. (JR)