For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2018 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru is lucid silver in hue. The bouquet is not as immediate as Bessin’s other 2018, taking its time to unfold, revealing citrus peel, oyster shell and dew-speckled green apple aromas that are beautifully defined. The palate is succinctly balanced, effortlessly carrying the weight of this Valmur. Wonderful intensity on the finish, yet linear and steely. You might deduce this to come from a much cooler growing season than it does. Top class - a Chablis that totally transcends the vintage.

The 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur has turned out brilliantly. Unusually demonstrative for a young Valmur chez Bessin, it bursts with aromas of citrus oil, apple blossom, crisp orchard fruit and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, round and fleshy, it misses some of the cut and tension of a top vintage, but its charming, open-knit profile means that it will offer considerable near-term appeal.

Oyster shell, fresh cream and pear, with brisk acidity to frame the flinty, chalky palate. Nice tension and pretty good length. (TJ)