The 2012 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru has a little more fruite on the nose compared to the Latricieres, more exuberant and showy at this stage. The palate is underpinned by fine tannins. It is imbued with sorbet-like freshness and stoked with very pretty tart red cherries, blood orange and an endearing spicy finish that lends this grand cru length. Excellent. I remember visiting Domaine Rossignol-Trapet on my very first foray into Burgundy in 1997 and having followed their wines closely ever since, it was good to return, albeit briefly, to taste through their 2012s. During that period, the biggest change has been David and Nicolas Rossignol’s conversion to biodynamics in 2004, a process that was being trialed during that first visit. They told me that they have fine-tuned their vinification in accordance, for example, using less pigeage than they once did, and this has resulted in a finer, more nuanced set of wines in recent years. Here, the harvest commenced on 27 September and finished on 4 October. Hail reduced their Beaune vineyards’ production by around 20% and their older vines suffered millerandage, though they found that the premier crus held up fine. I have always felt that their wines are a little under-rated by cognoscenti. While over the road, Denis Bachelet has perhaps unintentionally propagated a zealous, almost feverish following for his wines, Rossignol-Trapet perhaps has a more commercial bent and that used to be reflected in their good, but rarely great wines. Yet in the last three or vintages, so they have fine-tuned their style: ratcheted up a few levels towards, if not equal to that of Denis Bachelet and the village’s top tier of producers. Time to give these fine wines another look if you have not done so recently. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400 and through various UK merchants including Bibendum and Justerini & Brooks.

The Chapelle Chambertin Grand Cru boasts stunning depth and richness. Trapet used 70% whole clusters, all of which are impeccably balanced and integrated. Dark red cherry, plum, smoke, licorice and savory herbs are some of the many notes that shape the voluptuous finish. The balance of fruit, acidity and structure is compelling, but the Chapelle is a wine for the cellar, so patience is going to be a virtue.

(60% vendange entier): Good bright red. Wild, expressive aromas of black cherry, game and minerals. Sappy and fresh in the mouth, showing captivating inner-mouth energy to the flavors of raspberry, cranberry, redcurrant, menthol and flowers. Really lovely fruit here, as well as a medicinal reserve that promises more to come. Finishes with firm, building tannins and excellent length. All of these wines are still a bit hardened by a small sulfur addition a week or two prior to my visit.

Lovely pure bright fruit on the nose, just a hint of oak spice. Very pretty on the palate – delicious, if light. Persistent though. Lots of pleasure. (JH)