Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru from Hudelot-Noëllat winemaker, Charles van Canneyt, has a modest bouquet with pretty red plum and redcurrant aromas, the oak lending some lift and neatly embroidered into the fruit. Nice purity here. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, well judged acidity, modest depth with a clean and silky smooth finish that is a tad commercial, if not delivering the same complexity as its peers. However, it does improve and has a pleasant piquancy. Tasted September 2016.

This is the négoce label of Hudelot-Noëllat, named after the owner, grandson of Alain Hudelot-Noëllat. He buys wine not grapes. Just 15 barrels of this one. Lightish ruby. Scented and bright. Cherry fruited. Delicately sweet and fresh with a light grip on the finish. Not sure if this is for the long haul but lots of pleasure early on. (JH)