The 2016 Saint-Véran Lieu (Inter)dit is also excellent, offering up a classy bouquet of peach, pastry cream and blanched almonds. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, glossy and incisive, with a compelling sense of completeness and a long, stony finish. As readers may know, this cuvée's name is a classic Guffensian pun, nodding to its origins in the lieu-dit of Côte Rôtie, a denomination prohibited by the authorities after a complaint from the winegrowers of the northern Rhône. It's supplemented by old-vine fruit from Terres Noires.

The 2016 Saint-Veran Lieu Inter(Dit) comes mainly from the lieu-dit of “Côte Rôtie” near the village of Davayé plus fruit from old vines in the Terres Noires vineyards. Matured in 25% new oak, it has a powerful and expressive bouquet with plenty of citrus fruit, peach skin and grilled walnut scents that burst from the glass. The palate is well balanced with an irresistible fatness combined with a fine thread of acidity and excellent salinité on the finish. This is a superb Saint-Véran from the Belgian maestro.