1990 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

While the Bonnes Mares is closed, the dark ruby/purple color and the wine's terrific potential are evident. Full-bodied, with a blossoming, black-cherry nose complemented by a judicious use of toasty new oak, this wine exhibits wonderful richness, excellent definition and structure, and a long, dense, concentrated finish. Anticipated maturity: 1997-2010. After a wait of nearly twenty years, these 1990s are the first truly profound wines to emerge from this great domaine since 1972. If the rigid oenologist who fashions these wines, Monsieur Millet, would throw away his filters, they probably could have been even more exciting. However, these 1990s are stunning enough to convince me that the resurrection of Comte de Vogue has begun. Interestingly, Millet has shown some flexibility and is now doing a cold maceration of 5-7 days before starting the fermentation, which has no doubt contributed to the black/purple color of these wines. Importer: Ideal Wine and Spirits Co., Medford, MA.