2012 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

de Vogüé's 2012 Bonnes-Mares explodes from the glass with a soaring mélange of aromas and flavors. Violets, licorice, cloves and tar are some of the notes that add complexity to a core of dark blue and black-toned fruit. Explosive and insanely beautiful, the 2012 is utterly captivating. The overall sensation is like biting into a hard candy, with the crunchy outer sugar representing the firmness of the grape skin and the inner sweetness of the candy as the pure fruit. What a magnificent wine this is.

Deep ruby. This is also quite floral with excellent ripeness but also fine freshness to the plum, black cherry, cassis and blueberry aromas. The supple but tautly muscular medium weight plus flavors possess a suave mouth feel thanks to the abundant dry extract that both coats the palate and buffers the very firm tannic spine on the highly persistent and imposingly powerful finish. Here too plenty of patience will be required. Drinks:2027+ (January 2015)

Dark, bright red. Red raspberry, licorice and menthol on the nose, complicated by notes of bitter chocolate and spices. Large-scaled and broad but less forthcoming today than the Chambolle 1er Cru, with dark raspberry, cherry and spice flavors showing a medicinal reserve and a touch of wildness. Shades toward blacker fruits on the dense, sappy back end, which features substantial ripe tannins and strong saline minerality. This very backward, powerful wine will need a long time to fully express itself.

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru from de Vogüé has a very refined nose: brambly red berry fruit, raspberry preserve and just a touch of damp undergrowth coming through with time. The reduction actually becomes more pronounced with time. The palate is medium-bodied, perhaps lighter and airier than I was anticipated yet still displaying exquisite balance with an innocuous but charming, light-hearted finish that seems less exuberant than a year ago. I am sure this will gain more volume with bottle age. - eRobertParker.com, October 2015

Healthy, lustrous garnet. Meaty nose with real vigour and some evolution. Velvety and sweetly charming with the density of a grand cru. Maturing very nicely.You could actually enjoy it already. Lovely tannin quality. And great finish. (JR)