(from a 375-ml. bottle): Bright, full red. Sexy high tones and a balsamic quality to the aromas of currant, plum and leather. Then silky and plush in the mouth but with no shortage of power or energy to its redcurrant and nutty oak flavors. Seriously concentrated premier cru with finishing suggestions of leather and game. Winemaker François Millet expressed the opinion that the 2002s were expressive from the start and never really closed down. "They were also sweeter and warmer than the 2014s, and less subtle, with higher alcohol." (I subsequently tasted another bottle of this wine in New Zealand, this one in regular 750-ml. format, and it showed captivating strawberry and black raspberry fruit; wonderful silky density supported by a ripe edge of acidity; and fine-grained tannins and terrific finishing verve. My score and projected drinking plane is for this latter bottle, which seemed even younger than the one I tasted at the estate in November.)

Good deep red. Very expressive aromas of raspberry, spices and earth; seductively high-toned today, with hints of more exotic fruits. "The acids really lift and open the wine's nose," says Millet. Supple, sweet and rich in the middle; fat for Chambolle villages Finishes with sweet tannins and excellent length.