(tasted from a 375-milliter bottle): Very bright red with ruby tones; looks like a young wine. Deep, dark red and black fruit aromas are complicated by cinnamon, black pepper, roast coffee and a hint of truffley underbrush. Wonderfully rich but classy and reserved, and not a bit heavy. Utterly silky, plush, energetic wine with a relaxed quality to its lively dark fruit and dark chocolate flavors. Finishes classically dry, with beautifully buffered tannins and captivating building sweetness. Amazingly, this 375-milliliter bottle seems still short of its peak, so I would imagine that well-stored 750s still need time. I'd guess 2022-2042 for 750s.

In contrast to the general style of the vintage, this is still aromatically austere though with coaxing, reveals wonderfully complex aromas of a simply incredible array of black fruits, earth, spice, crushed herbs and notes of chocolate with flavors that are huge but fine, powerful but subtle and rich yet detailed with a stupendously long finish that offers intense minerality. This is genuinely stunning juice and not to be missed if you have the chance.

The dark ruby-colored 1999 Musigny has lovely aromas of violets, blueberries, and candied cherries. Medium-bodied and deep, it is filled with red fruits, stones, pomegranates, and strawberries. Loads of supple, ripe tannins can be discerned in its fresh, long, pure finish. Drink it between 2001 and 2009. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770.

The 1999 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru from de Vogüé doles out pure dark berry fruit commingling with melted tar. Maybe there's just a touch of TCA? The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, quite robust and missing a bit of grace. Certainly, it would not be my first port of call if seeking Pinoté . I wonder if this is enduring a dumb phase, but then again, it is now 25 years old.

Deeper colour than the 2002 served alongside. More youthful and drier. This is serious rather than charming stuff at the moment with a distinctly green vegy topnote on some extremely rich and slightly dusty fruit. Work in progress but it will surely have a very long life. (JR)