Francois Millet thinks that there is considerable latent structure as well as aging potential in all of the De Vogue 2006s, and with the 2006 Musigny Vieilles Vignes both are evident. Diverse jellied berries, citrus oils, and floral perfumes indeed seductively fill the nose, and then flood a seamlessly refined palate. At the same time, a sense of chalky and saline minerality as well as marrowy meatiness mount into the finish, taking on further prominence as the wine opens to the air. On the one hand you feel as though you are watching the wafting of clouds of fruit and perfume; on the other the motion of tectonic plates beneath your palate. This superb Musigny is going to be a great source of metaphors over the next 15 or more years, and one could do worse than start with the familiar iron fist wrapped in velvet, because it fits this wine like a glove. Francois Millet is always keen to pinpoint the expression of fruit he finds in each vintage, and for him 2006 is an instance of "jellied" fruit character. I can certainly agree with him about the seductiveness of the vintage at this address, and his laconic comment on the communal hail – "not too problematic" – seems clearly born out by the quality this estate has achieved. (I unfortunately did not have chance to taste the de Vogue Amoureuses post-malo, so I must refrain from offering a note.) Imported by Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770; also a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

Deep, bright red. Offers an extra dimension on the nose, with captivating sappy red fruits, minerals, blood orange, clove, menthol and bitter chocolate. Enters the mouth thick and opulent, then wonderfully dense and seamless in the middle, with compelling sweetness and piquant minerality. The back half of the wine shows the powerful, structured side of the vintage, finishing with major tannins and an impression of brooding energy. This may well merit a higher score with a decade or so of bottle aging.

The 2006 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru has a rambunctious nose with raspberry ripple and crushed strawberry scents, though it doesn't fully have the complexity of other vintages. The palate is chewy, slightly muscular and impressively dense. It's surly on the finish with markedly dry tannins that don't urge you back for more. It's the kind of Musigny that I feel would not be made under the present regime.

Firm, deep crimson, one of the bluest. Very fine. No bluster, just fruit and structure. Not flattering but very admirably true. Finishes very dry. Liquorice. Long. Real peacock’s tail. Really lovely. (JR)