Bright, dark red. Knockout nose offers most of the Musigny food groups: raspberry, cherry, earth, wild herbs, flowers and minerals, plus a leathery nuance. Pungent and extremely intense but utterly weightless owing to its near-perfect balance of sweetness and juiciness. Best today on the explosive, building back end, which offers a powerfully chewy, sappy impression but no rough edges. Winemaker François Millet suggests waiting at least 10 to 15 years.

The 2014 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is a vintage I have not tasted for some time. Quite rustic on the nose, it offers red fruit, juniper berries, leather and forest floor scents that take time to cohere. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, austere like so many of the Côte de Nuits reds, and a slightly dry finish.

Needed to be warmed to encourage the aroma. Majestic rather than refreshing. Many blackberry layers under the majestic overlay. Real depth and tension. Lots of density. But refined on the end. Dry finish. Many a muscle. This is humming along. Lots of mineral limestone lift on the end. (JR)