The 2017 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is showing very well indeed, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cherries, rose petal, warm spices and orange rind, framed by creamy new wood. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and velvety, with the greatest depth and dimension of any wine in the cellar, displaying excellent energy and completeness, and distinguished above all by striking length on the finish.

The 2017 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is complex and well defined on the nose, where touches of iodine and wild heather infuse the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly grainy texture; notes of black truffle and fresh fig complement a fruit profile that welcomes more red fruit toward the finish. Hints of white pepper and sage linger on the aftertaste. This is certainly beginning to close up in bottle, so allow a decade if you can for this Musigny to show what it is capable of.

The younger vines from Musigny - which means less than 25 years old at de Vogüé - are always made as a separate cuvée, and rightly so. This comes from white soils and the freshness of the limestone really sings on the palate. It has an impressive structure and concentration with plum, kirsch and black cherry fruit flavours framed by stylish 25% new wood.

Their biggest holding. Oldest vines planted in 1953 and still in good shape. And all more than 25 years old. Deep crimson. The sort of freshness that I associate with stems even though this is fully destemmed. Cedary, cool, dark fruit, intense and just a touch dusty/stony/mineral. Perfectly matched on the palate with that rocky dark-fruit purity, dry yet succulent, and fragrant. Deep and contemplative and so much more to come. Refined texture. (JH)