The Voillot 2005 Pommard Pezerolles offers aromas of cherry and rhubarb, followed by a pungently brown-spiced, sweet-tart palate concentration. Nor does this neglect a deep carnal dimension. Ginger, clove and allspice and tart raw fruit dominate this wine’s strikingly pungent, spicy finish. An unusual wine, this would be intriguing to revisit in a few years. Jean-Pierre Charlot promotes a brisk, athletically lean and often downright rapier style on which opinions are bound to diverge. If it sets you salivating to imagine the brightness, transparency and cut of Riesling in the medium of Pinot Noir – characteristics I would ordinarily consider more appropriate to Volnay than Pommard – then do not miss this address! The wines had very recently been assembled (and in three instances bottled) when I tasted. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($26.00;84), 2005 Pommard ($50.00;86), Voillot’s 2005 Beaune Coucherias ($60.00;85-87+?), 2005 Pommard Clos Micot ($85.00;85-86). Importer: Vintage 59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966 9218