(80% vendange entier ): Bright full red. Reticent, very pure aromas of candied cherry, rose petal, white pepper and blood orange. Lovely delicacy and inner-mouth tension to the penetrating flavors of pomegranate, cranberry and spices. A wine of outstanding finesse, finishing juicy, vibrant, perfumed and long. This classic Bonnes-Mares will need extended aging: I wouldn't think of uncorking a bottle for at least eight to ten years.

The 2011 Bonnes Mares needs time to fully come together. Today the whole clusters (80%) are a bit prominent. Savory herbs, tobacco, incense and orange peel all add layers of complexity to the dark fruit in a powerful, intense Burgundy that captures the essence of this site, albeit in a more medium-bodied style than is normal for this wine, but that is very much in line with the year. The 2011 is going to need at least another few years to be fully expressive. There is plenty of tannin and acidity to ensure years of fine drinking.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. Lighter in color, there are plenty of pretty, demure red berry fruits on the nose of the Bonnes-Mares 2011 from Domaine de la Vougeraie: very pure and translating the essence of Pinoté, albeit not the kind of aromatics for someone seeking opulence. The palate is medium-bodied with very well-judged acidity. This just glides across the palate and down the throat in effortless fashion. Bon vin.