One of the highlights of the range is the 2018 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, a striking wine that offers up aromas of wild berries, rose petals, grilled squab and burning embers. On the palate, it's full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with refined tannins but serious depth and structure. This is a muscular wine from Domaine de la Vougeraie, and it will prove long lived.

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru comes from three parcels, two up on the terraces on terre blanche soils and one on terre rouge _, from mainly 65-year-old vines and using 90% whole bunch. It has a crisp bouquet with touches of dark chocolate and tobacco infusing the black fruit, becoming earthier with continued aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple tannins matched by a keen thread of acidity. This feels gentle and approachable for a Grand Cru, and quite focused, with a lilting finish. Fine.