Vougeraie's 2012 Charmes-Chambertin Les Mazoyères, from 100 year-old vines, is incredibly primary and intense at this stage. A huge core of blue and black fruit, savory herbs and graphite struggle to emerge. The 2012 is broad-shouldered and structured, not to mention a wine for the patient. The 2012 was vinified with 80% whole clusters. There is a lot to look forward to.

(from vines planted in 1913; 12.8% natural alcohol in 2012, from a crop level of just 18 hectoliters per hectare owing to widespread millerandage; 80% vendange entier; 70% new oak): Saturated bright ruby-red. Deep, superripe aromas of black raspberry, violet, mocha and smoked meat. Fat, sweet and voluminous without coming across as heavy. Chewy with extract, with the stem component giving good lift to the middle palate. There's something a touch dry and peppery on the middle palate but the finish is long and the tannins sweet, and this rather uncompromising wine improved steadily in the glass. For now, I'll give this one the benefit of a slight nagging doubt.