Good medium red. Musky, slightly rustic nose shows more red than black fruits, with complicating notes of underbrush, herbs and pepper. Very rich, tactile, dry and backward, showing more minerality and medicinal reserve than primary berry or cherry fruit in the early going. Tough going today in spite of its depth of texture and richness. Not at all a sweet style. Vincent told me he prefers the easier sweetness of the 2014, noting that, in general, he regards the 2010 vintage as the best compromise between sweetness and energy since he took over winemaking here in 2006.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is looking more advanced in appearance than its peers (possibly due to some stem addition?). The nose is loose-knit and lacks a little focus while the palate feels dry and missing substance. It dries out towards the smoky finish although pleasant stemmy notes seem to enliven the aftertaste. Not bad, although Domaine de la Vougeraie produced better wines in this vintage. Tasted September 2016.

Already bottled. 20 hl/ha and 50% whole bunch. Pale crimson. Rather sappy and savoury on the nose – broad appeal. Certainly fully ripe – no sign of the characteristic high acid of 2013. Light (perhaps lighter than the average grand cru) but fresh, well balanced and very disarming. (JR)