The maiden 2012 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Clos des Thorey comes from the lieu-dit Haut Thorey. Representing three hectares, it was fermented with 50% whole bunches. It has an excellent bouquet with fragrant red berry fruit and minerals – superb definition here. The palate is sensual and very focused on the entry: a real citric tension here with superb finesse on the finish. This is one of the estate’s best wines this year – this is a debut that deserves a round of applause. Domaine de la Vougeraie was founded in 1998 when the domaines of Claudine Deschamps, Pierre Ponnelle, Louis Voilland and L’Heritier-Guyot were merged. I remember it well because at the time I was exporting L’Heritier-Guyot’s wines to Japan (to be frank, they were quite ordinary back then.) The man behind the venture was Jean-Claude Boisset, whose own considerable holdings meant that Domaine de la Vougeraie became a significant player in the Cote d’Or, with 37 hectares of prime vineyard including seven grand crus to their name. I have to be honest and say that like many others, I liked the first few vintages of their wine, but found them a little predictable and seemed to struggle for charm and personality. Perhaps that was a reflection of former winemaker Pascal Marchand applying the practices he had learned at Comte Armand: a lot of new oak with 100% de-stemmed fruit – not really my bag. When he departed for pastures new, incoming winemaker Pierre Vincent seemed to apply a gentler touch. The new oak is still part of the wines’ character, but there is certainly a more considered approach, plus he is more open to using whole cluster fruit. Managing such an array of wines with a relatively small team cannot be easy in challenging vintages such as 2012, or for that matter 2013. Pierre told me that his average yields were 22 hectoliters per hectare, though for the grand crus, they were down to 17 hectoliters per hectare. Importer: Boisset Family Estates, St. Helena, CA; tel. (800) 878-1123

(the first vintage here for these old vines, which came to Boissey from Thomas-Moillard by way of Dufouleur and Rodet; vinified with 20% whole clusters): Slightly high-toned aromas of raspberry, spices and stone. Sweet, pliant and thick but with good inner-mouth lift from calcaire. Lovely fruit intensity here in a slightly cooler style. Finishes with sweet tannins and good juicy length. Makes the Corvees Pagets seem a bit rustic by comparison.

Tasted blind. Light crimson. Very indistinct, vaguely cough medicine nose. Sweet palate entry but a lack of real fruit concentration on the mid palate. Scrawny finish. Too tart and casual. (JR)