The 2019 Pommard Les Rugiens 1er Cru comes from 90-year-old vines, including 20% whole bunches and the same percentage of new oak. It is very expressive on the nose with brambly red berry fruit, briary, sous-bois and light rose petal scents. This is one of the prettiest Les Rugiens that I have tasted. The palate is succulent on the entry with rounded raspberry and cranberry fruit. Perhaps I would have liked more terroir expression, more tension on the finish of this Les Rugiens, but it does feel very long and tender. Give it 3-4 years in bottle.

Same age as his Caillerets: 90-year-old vines. 20% whole bunch, 20% new oak. Whole bunch because he finds Rugiens a bit solid and needs lightening up for a wine ready to drink sooner. He recognises that people now haven’t the patience to wait, but is a big admirer of fully mature Hubert de Montille Pommards. Cask sample. Juicy and much rounder than the Rugiens stereotype. Great density but lift too. He admits that his Volnay roots are evident in this wine. A pretty Rugiens! With a mineral undertow. (JR)