The 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Verseuil wafts from the glass with lavish aromas of blackberries, cherries, dark chocolate and toasty new oak. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and layered, it's rich and fleshy, with chalky structuring tannins that assert themselves on the back end and lively balancing acids. This is certainly marked by its élevage, but it should develop well with some bottle age.

The 2018 Volnay Clos de Verseuil 1er Cru has a slightly stewed nose, just a hint of VA but nothing too bad. Blackcurrant pastilles. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a touch of spice on the entry, though it never attains the complexity of a serious Volnay Premier Cru. Just a hint of dryness on the finish. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.

Fresh, dark-red fruit on the nose. Verging towards very ripe. And on the palate, that ripeness has really taken the life and energy out of their fruit. Sour finish. (JH)