Since the Lafarge family's parcel of Passetoutgrain was planted the year that paterfamilias Michel Lafarge was born, they decided to produce a special cuvée, the 2018 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain Cuvée Anthologie, to celebrate Michel's 90th birthday. Taking only fruit of vines from the original planting and from the upper part of the parcel, the grapes were destemmed by hand, and they produced enough wine to fill one 300-liter barrel and one 600-liter foudre. Unwinding in the glass with complex aromas of sweet red berries, peonies and rich soil tones, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and and succulent, with lively acids, powdery structuring tannins and a long finish. Any of the ensuing large-format bottles will be well worth tracking down.

The 2018 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain "Anthologie" is actually not the confirmed name at the time of this writing, but it is a special one-off cuvée that comes from 90-year-old vines. It boasts a very pure raspberry and wild strawberry bouquet mixed with rose petals, much more Pinot than Gamay. The palate is medium-bodied with raspberry and cranberry fruit. Nicely proportioned and structured on the finish. This will be bottled mainly in larger formats.