Medium red. Captivating aromas of redcurrant, raspberry, coffee, smoked meat and minerals. Juicy, supple and concentrated, with plenty of fat buffered by harmonious acidity. Delivers the classic mid-palate energy of the vintage. Finishes with a very firm acid/tannin spine and a lingering smoky minerality. This is almost 2005-like in its structure: I would not be at all surprised if it shut down in the bottle.

The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes reveals quite a bit more depth than the straight Gevrey bottling. Black cherries, flowers, mint and licorice are some of the many notes that take shape in the glass. This remains very much in the Serafin style, which is to say it is first and foremost a wine of textural refinement. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Christian Serafin doesn’t say a lot, at least not verbally. The wines speak for him eloquently though. Serafin has turned out a lovely set of 2010s. I give the edge to 2009 for consistency across his range, but the top wines here are undoubtedly exciting. They will thrill readers who appreciated transparent, weightless Burgundies. Yields were down 20-30% on average, which is on the lower end of the spectrum within the context of the year. Serafin planned to bottle his 2010s between February and April 2012. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes has an expressive bouquet with a bank of blackberry and bilberry fruit, touches of undergrowth, though maybe not quite as elegant as I found the 2013 tasted alongside. The palate is defined by quite robust tannin, dense black fruit with a dash of white pepper, then a hint of sage towards the firm finish that suggests it deserves another couple of years in bottle. Tasted at Goedhuis's Burgundy tasting at Vintners Hall.

This domaine was originally put on the map by Christian Sérafin’s father, Stanilaus Sérafin, a Polish émigré, who settled in Burgundy before the war and espoused 50% whole-bunch fermentation and not too much new oak. His son Christian inherited the domaine in 1988, where he had been the winemaker for the previous 20 years. The style here relies on 100% new oak for all cuvées above the village Gevrey, which makes the wines tricky in their youth but gives great ageing potential. From three plots of between 60-90 years of age – Etelois, Vignes Belles and En Champs. (Adam Bruntlett) Mid ruby – definitely ageing. Pale rim. Round, sweet and flattering with a real kick of the heels lift on the finish. Very solid. Great to have a village wine with this much ambition and density. Long and very typical of the appellation. Not cheap but textbook, satisfying stuff. Much better than many a Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru. (JR)