The 2018 Bourgogne Aligoté Les Champs d’Argent continues to show very nicely, blossoming in the glass—and shedding a slight touch of volatility as it does so—with aromas of pear, citrus oil and white flowers, much as I described it last year. Medium to full-bodied, textural but precise, it's supple and enveloping, with racy underlying acids and chalky dry extract. As I wrote before, this cuvée is the raison d'être for Lachaux's négociant project, and it derives from a parcel in the commune of Vosne-Romanée that was planted in the 1930s and 1990s. The vines are trained "en échalas" and yielded 42 hectoliters per hectare in the generous 2018 vintage.

The 2018 Bourgogne Aligoté Les Champs d’Argent, the wine that inspired Lachaux to incept his négociant side project, comes from 0.6 hectares and sees no SO2. It offers light honey and beeswax aromas on the nose. In the mouth, a little low in acidity but followed by a very pure orange pith and praline-tinged aftertaste.

Négoce label created by Charles Lachaux but unlike most of the wines under this label, this is from the domaine’s own fruit. Pale gold, intense aroma of citrus and wild herbs. When I went back to it, I was surprised by a note of smoky bacon! Pear and grapefruit on the palate with a fine and attractive grip to the texture. Full in the mouth but fresh. Subtly spicy. Broader than it is deep but finishes fresh and lemony. Chewy and spicy on the finish. An Aligoté with lots of personality. (JH)