The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Fonteny 1er Cru, a monopole of 0.67 hectares, has a tightly wound bouquet that opens with aeration: brambly red fruit mixed with light loamy and woodland scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very mineral-driven with an almost flinty, stern and strict just like a Ruchottes on the finish. Excellent, but one for serious Burgophiles.

Cask sample. Mid to light crimson with a touch of blue. Distinctive aroma of oak spice and even a hint of charry toast as well as dark fruits. That savoury charry flavour on the palate too. A definite style but not overdone. The oak seems to have finessed the tannins rather than thickening them. Savoury, long and needing time to blossom. Even so, the finish is mouth-wateringly fresh and harmonious. (JH)