The 2010 Volnay Clos des Chenes opens with a huge, exotic bouquet redolent of blackberries, plums, licorice and flowers. It reveals tremendous energy and focus to match a vibrant personality that captures the best qualities of 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. There are two recurring themes every time I taste with Dominique Lafon; this is always one of the top visits in Burgundy, and there never seems to be enough time to explore all of the nuances in each of these wines. Lafon was fortunate to escape the vintage with just 20% lower yields than 2009, which here translates to 32 hectoliters per hectare as compared to 35 in a normal year and 40 in an abundant year. The malos were very, very slow. In fact, there were a few barrels still finishing their malos in early December, 2011. The 2009 reds have also turned out beautifully. I will report on those wines in the April issue. Importers: Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA, tel. (781) 352 1100; Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040; A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677 9300

Good deep red-ruby. Black cherry and licorice aromas are lifted by a sappy floral quality. Juicy and concentrated, offering terrific vibrancy and a sensation of chewy extract. Strong minerality contributes to the impression of density without weight. Impeccably balanced, stony and long. From a crop level of less than 30 hectoliters per hectare, according to Dominique Lafon. I'd come back to this in eight or ten years.