The 2013 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes, of which there are two and a half barrels, has a straitlaced black plum and blackberry bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy ripe blackcurrant and cassis notes, very good depth here, and then surfacing on the finish with elegant and quite tensile tannins. This is a well-crafted, strict Clos des Chênes that might be overshadowed by the Champans, but is still a worthy wine.

(as with the Santenots and Champans, the yield here was just 15 hectoliters per hectare, according to Lafon): Healthy medium red. Subtle flavors of kirsch , licorice, minerals and violet are given lift and definition by brisk acidity. Supple but sappy wine with firm but fine-grained tannins and a strong finishing note of licorice. A lovely showing.

There is no young-vine bottling of Volnay tout court in 2013 – not enough wine. Substantial and juicy blend of half late malo and half early malo. Little bit of fizz but very promising, Lush and round. Masses of fruit. A little delicacy and a lot of fruit. (JR)