(13.2% alcohol without chaptalization; just three barrels made, one new; vinified with 50% whole clusters): Dark red-ruby. Very ripe but lively aromas of black raspberry and blackberry liqueur; smells more typically 2015 than the Monthélie. Fat, silky and sweet, offering powerful, inviting dark cherry and chocolate flavors. Displays lovely fruity energy and a resounding finish featuring dusty tannins and excellent grip. Lafon planned to bottle this wine on the early side because it was already showing so well. These vines were picked on August 31, as the crop load was tiny--20 hectoliters per hectare--and "the fruit was ripening too fast."

The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes, which includes 50% whole cluster this year after the fruit was picked on 31 August, will be matured in a maximum of one-third new oak. It has a fragrant raspberry and blackberry-scented bouquet with a touch of iodine. The palate is medium-bodied with lush tannin, a fine bead of acidity and very pure raspberry, wild strawberry and blueberry notes that flourish towards the generous finish. This is a fine Clos des Chênes, though surpassed by the Volnay Champans and Santenots this year.

Cask sample. Great vivacity and life as well as rich ripe fruit. Great texture and a bone-dry finish. Racy and transparent. Very much de nos jours. Dry end and very much a statement. (JR)