The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet La Garenne 1er Cru sees around 15% new oak. It has a Zen-like bouquet with wet limestone and light apple blossom aromas that gradually unfurl in the glass. The palate is balanced with good weight, though here I would have liked more tension and mineralité to come through, especially on the finish that needs to up its game to match the aromatics. Let’s see how this performs once in bottle.

(from vines on lighter, friable soil): Bright yellow. Crystallized lemon peel and an element of noble herbs on the nose. Tightly wound and a bit youthfully imploded, with its lemon and chalk flavors intensified by slightly spiky acidity. There's nothing thick about this chalky Puligny but does it have enough sweetness of fruit to support its spine?