The 2012 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, which I tasted last year when it was too reduced, was finally ready. It has a beautiful nose evoking scents of lemon curd and orange blossom, all with fine definition and vivacity. The palate is ripe and rounded on the mouth, a relatively generous Corton-Charlemagne with a dash of spice enlivening the finish. There is an abiding sense of completeness to David Croix’s wine. Superb. Drink now-2020+. I caught the talented and affable David Croix at the Terroirs de Corton tasting during the Grands Jours, and he had three recently bottled examples on show, all terrific wines. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selections (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)

The 2012 Corton-Charlemagne (from Le Charlemagne) is fabulous. Smoke, apricots, honey, Chamomile and mango are all very much alive on the glass. Rich, honeyed and viscous, yet supported by lovely tension, the 2012 is superb today. The Corton is all about power, textural richness and intensity, but it also has good underlying minerality. Sadly, there is just one barrel of this juice. Yields were down a stunning 75%. I tasted the 2012 from tank, just before bottling.