The 2010 Volnay Les Caillerets is weightless, gracious and impeccably balanced from start to finish. High toned floral notes lead to sweet red cherries, licorice and tobacco in this silky, feminine Volnay. The style is airy, light and delicate. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Winemaker David Croix describes 2010 as being similar to 2002, but with more tension. The harvest started on September 23. About two-thirds of the wines were lightly chaptalized. None of these wines had been racked at the time of my visit in November 2011. Giroud fans will note the addition of two new Volnays to the lineup. I will report on the maison’s 2009s in the April issue. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including Grand Cru Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 974-2500; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640