2011 Domaine Roulot, Meursault Premier Cru, Clos des Boucheres

Roulot's 2011 Meursault Clos de Bouchères is one of the more weightless, ethereal wines in the range. I expect it will fill out a bit with time in bottle, although it is likely to remain relatively understated. Green pears, flowers, crushed rocks and saline notes all come together in a wine that impresses for its persistence and overall harmony. This is the first vintage for Roulot's Clos de Bouchères.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The 2011 Meursault 1er Cru Clos de Bouchères from Jean-Marc Roulot has an austere bouquet, with an attractive marine influence of seaweed and seashells, although it needs a little more intensity that should develop with continued bottle age. The palate is balanced with a pleasant fatness on the entry, viscous in texture. There is good fruit concentration here: plenty of matière with a ripe and slightly honeyed finish that suggests just a little botrytis perhaps. This does not quite evince the spectacular showing at the domaine last year, although it is very fine Meursault that will repay cellaring.