The 2021 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru comes from two parcels on the east and west of the climat. Matured in three-year-old Chassin barrels, the pure bouquet has yellow plum, Granny Smiths and sea spray aromas bursting from the glass. The palate is very well-balanced with a taut opening. Fresh and vibrant with a crisp and penetrating finish, a tang of grapefruit on the aftertaste. Vrai Grand Cru!

Derived from east- and west-facing parcels that were picked two days apart, Billaud's 2021 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir offers up aromas of peach, freshly baked bread, iodine, oyster shell and vine blossom, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping palate girdled by tangy acids and concluding with a long, chalky finish.

For reports and full tasting notes, go to Tim Atkin MW's website.

Cask sample. Powerful and inviting aroma that reveals the finest use of oak – gently mealy and spicy, and yet the fruit shines and still shows a mineral stoniness. Remarkably complex for a young wine. Deep, firm, very long, succulent. A beautifully complete wine. Intense and tense at the same time. (JH)