The 2019 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has an open, expressive bouquet of red berry fruit plus touches of leather and black pepper; it does not quite possess the delineation of the domaine’s top-performing Vosne Premier Crus. The palate is medium-bodied with candied red fruit on the entry and a little more vanilla-y than expected, but there is a plushness and energy on the finish, and hints of dark chocolate on the aftertaste, which render this very sensual. Give this Clos Vougeot 4–5 years in bottle.

Ten-year lease from 2015 with an organic producer on the Vosne side, mid slope. Liger-Belair says they are involved in vineyard management but they don’t prune. Cask sample. Heady and rich. Lots of charm and ease in comparison with many Clos de Vougeots. Black fruits and intensely liqueur-like. Long. (JR)