The 2017 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from purchased fruit. It has a well-defined bouquet of blackberry, raspberry coulis and light cassis aromas, and the one-third new oak is neatly integrated. The fleshy, generous palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and fine acidity, leading to a smooth, sensual finish. This might be earlier-drinking than Lignier’s other two Grand Crus.

Only 2.3 ha (5.7 acres) for the whole grand cru. Made since 2014. Bought as grapes. Shared between Laurent Ponsot and Dom René Leclerc. Three barrels on average. Mid cherry red. Wonderfully pure red-cherry aroma, lifted and inviting and a little peppery. Already expressive. This is not rich but it has everything in place: fragrant fruit, freshness and fine tannins enrobed in fruit, like chocolate round a hazelnut. Long and scented on the finish. (JH)