The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Perrière hails from a parcel that contains a mix of old and young vines, and this year Mortet declassified all the clusters with excessively large, fat berries derived from some of the younger vines. The result is a wine that surpasses the 2016 and 2017 renditions by some margin, so it was worth the effort. Bursting with scents of raspberries, plums, dark chocolate and soil tones, it's medium to full-bodied, lively and concentrated, with refined tannins and a mineral finish.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin La Perrière 1er Cru has a more backward and introspective nose than other cuvées; it’s a bit bashful at the moment. The palate is silky on the entry and beautifully balanced. The pixelated, joyful, energetic finish perhaps just misses a little length on the aftertaste. If this is resolved, a higher score will be warranted.

Meaty, intense nose. Juicy and readable – and with biodynamic energy in the wine. Though the price is pretty steep! Very interesting wine though. For the moment you have to take quite a bit on trust. (JR)