(L43409705044M): Light, bright gold. Mineral-accented aromas of orange, white flowers, ginger and white pepper, with a leesy overtone. Juicy, penetrating orchard fruit and orange zest flavors gain flesh and and spiciness with air. Packs a solid punch but carries no excess weight and finishes with impressive clarity and chalky, mineral-driven persistence. I'd give this youthful Champagne a few years to unwind.

The 2004 Brut Vintage is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, partially fermented in barrel (20%) and bottled with no dosage. The wine reveals excellent up-front intensity in its ripe yellow fruit and broad-shouldered frame but then falls a bit short on the mid-palate. Compared to the finest wines here, the 2004 Brut Vintage offers a two, rather than three-dimensional sense of aromatic and flavor complexity. This is Lot L 556997 32009J.