The 2006 Brut Cuvée Louis Salmon is a fabulous Champagne that balances the natural richness of the year with tons of energy. In this very warm vintage the winemaking team opted to block most of the malolactic fermentation (70%) to preserve freshness, an approach that worked beautifully. The weight of the year is present, but it is balanced by the wine's freshness and energy. Time in the glass brings out hints of chamomile, marzipan and lemon confit. At fifteen years of age, the 2006 is still a young Champagne that requires cellaring. In a word: dazzling. (Originally published in May 2021)

The 2006 Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Louis Salmon derives from old vines holdings in the same villages that inform Billecart's non-vintage Blanc de Blanc, and it has seen 11 years sur lattes. Wafting from the glass with aromas of warm bread, blanched almonds, dried citrus and fresh pear, it's medium to full-bodied, gourmand and fleshy, with tangy acids and an enveloping core of fruit that lends it a vinous profile, underpinned by lively acids and concluding with a tangy, saline finish. This is a very fine rendition of this cuvée, formerly known as the Prestige Blanc de Blancs.

New name. Four grands crus. Lots of it in UK. Dosage 6 g/l. Disgorged April 2018. Greenish gold. High toned. Quite rich palate entry, then tightens up. Racy and lively. Quite firm, this positively reverberates. Polished texture. Richer than the 2007. (JR)