Disgorged in October 2018 with seven grams per liter dosage, the 2007 Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Louis Salmon derives from the villages of Cramant, Chouilly and Mesnil-sur-Oger, and half of the vins clairs that went into the blend were vinified in older barrels. It's still tightly wound, even after over a year on cork, unfurling in the glass with a delicate bouquet of crisp yellow apple, Meyer lemon, blanched almonds, elderflower and crushed chalk. Medium to full-bodied, deep and searingly intense, it's seamless and complete, with a bracing spine of acidity, a delicate pinpoint mousse, and a long, mouthwateringly mineral finish. This is a serious, built-to-age wine that will really reward patience.

The 2007 Brut Cuvée Louis Salmon is another stellar wine from Billecart-Salmon. In many ways, it is the polar opposite of 2006. Here the team felt the wine needed body to balance the tension of the year. About half of the lots were done in barrel, while most of the wine underwent malolactic fermentation. Pretty citrus and floral notes abound. Stylistically, the 2007 is a bit more open than the 2006, even though the personalities of the two years would have suggested the exact opposite. The Louis Salmon is a blend from sites in Chouilly, Mesnil-sur-Oger and Cramant. Dosage is 7 grams per liter. (Originally published in May 2021)